This past holiday week, Ray and I broke several rules when it comes to "what not to do" with the influx of holiday travelers to the interior.
Interjection here first about using the word "interior" for where I think I live now. Published articles refer to the towns more west of Coronado as being the interior such as Pedasi, Chitre, Santiago, and Penonome. But expats and other Panamanians in this area have told me that anything away from Panama City is the interior of the country. I think I now live "close to the beaches near Panama City". But it's easier to just say the interior.
We went to the beach on what would be the most crowded of days (which is why we arrived early and only walked), we went to several grocery stores two days in a row trying to find specific products, and we went into Coronado for dinner. It was all easy though. The grocery stores were more crowded, but the lines moved quickly. The cars entering the gate to Coronado were piled up but manageable, and the crowds at the beach showed up when we were leaving, and while the vacationers played their music loudly at the beach out of the trunks of their cars, we were either far enough away on our walk, or we were just driving away. There was good to come out of the gym being closed in that Ray and I walked the beach. It's been on my list of things to do (the list is getting shorter). Punta Barco beach is fifteen minutes from our house. It is a wide sandy beach with black and white sand. While I wouldn't spend the day swimming here, because of the river that runs through it, and it can be quite rocky, it is perfect for long walks and shell collecting in the early mornings.
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Around the point looking at Coronado in the distance. |
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Large homes line the beach here. |
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The river |
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Paddle boarder |
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Low tide |
With having exercised (the gym finally opened on Thursday, I think, since I didn't try going back any earlier), having dinner with friends, trying a new Happy Hour, and attending our weekly Spanish lesson, I also set up a date to meet another "virtual" friend. This lovely and vibrant woman, Tonette, recently moved to a casita in El Valle. I remember living in Virginia (she lived in neighboring Maryland) reading her notes to the El Valle forums, I would answer a question if I thought I had the right answer, and then we started to email back and forth. We became fast email pen pals. She has now made El Valle her home. Her daughter lives in the city which is a huge bonus for her! After just five days of being here, I reached out to her to check in and see if she wanted to arrange a lunch date. She agreed, and Ray and I invited Clyde and Terry along for the drive. On the drive to El Valle, it poured, but only for about ten minutes of the trip. The rest of the day in El Valle was surprisingly sunny with a brilliant blue sky. Fantastic. It tends to be rainier and cooler there, since it is at 2,000 feet elevation. Tonette lives in a casita on a road Ray and I had driven on in the past, but we didn't know this road kept going and going. She is tucked away on a nice piece of property with the tranquility of peaceful gardens home to ducks, roosters, and horses.. After giving us the tour of her home, we enjoyed lunch and conversation at Bruschetta's. We then walked across the street to the library, and Tonette had two copies of her passport made for twenty cents. She also searched for DVD's, but on Friday, there were none to be had there.
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Beautiful orchid flower growing in a tree in front of Tonette's casita. |
After saying our goodbyes and promises to meet up again (and me not taking any pictures!), the four of us drove ten minutes down the mountain to friend's of Clyde and Terry's. This couple has spent the past five years building a container house. They gave us a wonderful tour of their home and garden. Their house is an amazing achievement! Go here to see all that they have accomplished, and what they hope to complete by next year.
http://www.panamashippingcontainerhouse.com
I didn't take any pictures, because his blog tells it all!
Today, Thurston Howell IV and Lovey invited Ray and I to their pool and beach, after we tried having a picnic at the San Carlos lake (Plan A). Ray and I had driven about thirty minutes "up this road" in the rental car we had when we first arrived to Chame, but now we wanted to find the lake. From the Interamerican Highway, this lake is 23 kms (14 miles) uphill. There are fantastic views. We were promised, by the owners of the new establishment, Frosty Jugos, a beautiful lake where people camp and spectacular views. However the first order of business after we loaded the car up with a cooler, chairs, and bathing suits (just in case) was to drive to Capira and buy bread and cheese to add to our picnic lunch from Queso Chelas. This is a small restaurant, okay it is a walk up, open-aired deli along the highway. It is #1 of 1 restaurants rated on TripAdvisor. This is a popular stop for many when driving to the interior, and we had yet to stop. It is always crowded so it has to be great! This "restaurant" carries artisan breads like Italian ciabatta with Kalamata olives, baguettes, bread with cranberry and nuts, empanadas, cheese bread, cheeses with garlic, pepper, cajun, olives and more, pizzas, juices, yogurts, and even US snacks such as Pringles and pretzels. Ray and I had stopped once before, but the lines were so long and, at the time, we were a little bit intimidated by all of the choices. What was it that we really wanted from there? Well, this time I knew! I wanted to try the cheese bread and several home made cheeses! I have restricted myself from those two items for long enough (not really)! While Ray and Thurston checked out the ceramics and produce market nearby, Lovey and I stood online. We spoke to the man in front of us who recommended certain cheeses. We ordered not one, but three loaves of fresh and hot out of the oven cheese bread (one for today and more for later, if they last that long), we picked up a bag of mozzarella with cajun spice cheese cubes, we had a "small chunk" of the white with green specks (olives, or something spicy) cut off and wrapped, and I asked for one Chicheme drink to go and for all to share for the road trip to the lake.
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Chicheme drink. |
Chicheme is a Panamanian specialty drink (almost exclusively found here and in Costa Rica) made from milk, corn (or cornmeal), vanilla, cinnamon and a little water. Lovey and I enjoyed it (it could have been a little colder) although it is odd swallowing pieces of corn, but the guys passes on more than one sip. After making our purchases, we loaded up the trunk with more goodies, and we stopped at Matildo's.
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For my front yard. |
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Assorted yard items. |
This is an eccentric shop a stone's throw off the highway. Very quirky. There are some beautiful and large metal figures and sculptures in the front of the shop that we have seen in front of restaurants, in El Machetazo (the grocery store) and homes. Inside the shop, there is artwork hanging along with chandeliers, china, fiestaware, primitive wood bowls, antique phones, tables, chairs, wine barrels made into tables, pool ball chandeliers, clocks made of Dominos, water pumps and more. It was almost as if I was in a large antique store back in the States. As a matter of fact, I saw many things that I had in my old house (old irons, hand pumps, dishes). Once we were overstimulated there, we hopped back in the car and off we went up the mountain to the lake.
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Welcome! Now what? |
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Campground. |
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The lake. The restaurant. The boats. |
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More of the lake with the low clouds. |
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Go marching along the path with leaves. |
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See the ants>>>> |
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Bathroom for .25 |
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The gorgeous sky and view! |
We weren't so sure about ever arriving to the lake. There is a split in the road, and we chose to bear left. We made the right decision (no pun intended), and we found the lake after spending a kilometer or so (who knows, we were bouncing so much) on a rickety, rocky, just plain old bad road. We had to pay a dollar per person to the man that walked up to us (he looked authoritative), and the sign said "no coolers allowed". Really? We were told it would be so crowded with Panamanians on holiday visiting the lake and that we should take a cooler and have a picnic. There were tents with a few people. It was chilly. We were in the basin of the mountain, so to speak, so the winds circled us. There was a slight mist in the air for a short period of time. We chose to walk the path. We stared at leaf cutter ants (like any old retired people would do, and just like my dad!), and Ray stepped on a fireant hill (only one bite, but very insignificant). We took pictures.
And then we took pictures down the mountain. We pulled off the side of the road to see the breathtaking view of the interior beaches and high rises, and Thurston Howell IV came up with the idea to enjoy our picnic poolside, since the lake wasn't a great option. Always a plan B, remember? So now our tour has extended past the three hour tour, and this is why the names suit Lovey and Thurston. Always expect the unexpected. To think Ray and I were here at the Coronado Bay pool two years ago on our first exploratory visit to Panama. We stayed on the eleventh floor with my sister and nephew. I have these same pictures, and they never grow old to me. Or less stunning. And here we are living in Panama a mere two years later.
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Looking left from the 23rd floor/pool deck. |
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Looking right (west) |
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Towards Gorgona Beach. |
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To the right of Coronado Bay (another condo bldg.) |
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I spy a cozy couple in the pool below. |
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Our picnic |
For lunch, there was Ray's homemade chicken salad, hummus, cheese bread with cajun mozzerella cheese, the chunk of white cheese that was spicy (!), beer, wine, garlic pita chips, carrots and apples (of course!), and brownies. Delicious. And then the guys went to the condo while Thea and I took a dip in the refreshing ocean and a nice, relaxing walk along the beach. And this is how Plan A turns into Plan B, a three hour tour turns into a six hour day, and as always, is a great day in this thing called retirement in Panama.
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Not our house (it comes with heavily armed guards) |
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A jeep coming along the beach. Lots of black sand this way. |
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