LAZY CONTADORA (DAY ONE)

When researching travel to Contadora, we found there are two ways to get to the island.  We could take the ferry which would cost less than $200/couple round trip or we could fly for about $300.  Flying would be twenty minutes once on the plane with a little sightseeing along the way.  We chose the ferry for the cost and for the sights we would see.  At the start of the trip, the coastline of Panama City is spectacular.  The ferry was clean, with clean bathrooms, a movie playing and also has drinks/snacks to buy if needed.  We sat inside for the air conditioning and lack of the ocean splashing us.  But when we needed pictures, we simply went to the back and started snapping away.  It was a hazy day, so the skyline was not as vivid as I have seen on brilliantly clear days.

Wonder if our things are on a ship like this one.

A large rock with the Panama skyline in the background.

Reminded me of a nice pirate ship

Cinta Costera in between the boats and the skyline

First thing we did know about Contadora before our trip is that it is more of a happening place on the weekends.  The weekdays were sure to be more quiet, and I had also been told by a wonderful new couple I met at the gym to bring provisions.  I was warned that while there are three groceries stores on the island, they would have supplies as the barges came in and the shop owners stocked them.  Groceries would be expensive, and the pickings could be slim.  We decided we would be eating dinners out anyways, so we kept what we brought food wise to a minimum.  I had read not to drink the tap water, but I thought that might be for those that think Panama water isn't potable.  We drank the water,  used it to cook with, brushed our teeth with it, and yes, we also drank bottled water.  

Because of a small snafu with the villa Thea had reserved long ago in November, we were placed in another villa and, because of this, the check in time was changed to "as soon as you arrive" and check out was when the ferry departed.  This was huge.  (The snafu was that there was a "water problem" in our villa--actually, the owner was arriving to "fix the water problem".  Really?  Water problem, or the owner was just going to use his own place?)  At 9:30 am, we pulled up to the island.  Actually, a tender brought us in one load at a time.  Backpacks and beach bags secured, we boarded the tender to get to the beach, and then security checked our bags.  This meant unzipping the bags so they could do a quick peek inside.  Samuel, I think that was his name,  had a golf cart waiting for us, and he drove us up the hill to the villa.  He showed us around a bit as well while the maid finished cleaning the unit.

Bringing the ferry passengers in one tender at a time.

The first order of business was to secure our own golf cart for two days.  We found John at the Welcome Center.  John has lived on the island for three years.  He rents everything from golf carts to kayaks to towels and chairs.  He has chocolate and plain croissants as well as ice cream.  He sells t-shirts and beach bags.  We also went to all three grocery stores.  We "stocked up" on beer, soda, Sangria, water, yogurt, two apples, cheese (American slices so thin we could see through the slice), bread, pineapple, chips, and eggs.  

Can rent or buy many things in this center.

I felt lopsided quite a bit when riding in the back of the golf cart.

 Once we had the golf cart, we took an initial drive around the island.  We found Playa Larga with the now dilapidated Hotel Contadora sitting eerily along the beach with an old, washed up ferry.  The story we were told about this hotel is that until 2010 it was being run as the largest hotel on the island.  But it was a horribly run down place to stay from 2008-2010 or so.  This is because the owner, on his way to a funeral in his plane, crashed and died.  His wife was then approached by a Croatian company to buy the hotel from her.  There was no hard money laid out, she was scammed, the Panamanian Government stepped in, the hotel was stripped of its walls, plumbing, outside boards, you name it and it was taken, and now it sits there.  It can be yours for $47 million.   But back in the day, it was a five star resort with casinos, restaurants, and a black tux affair.  Millionaires, politicians, celebrities made there way to this island and this hotel in the seventies and eighties.  Now it is just sad and eerie to see a shell of a hotel.  Our neighbor told us that in the late sixties and seventies his job was to pilot people such as the Shah of Iran in and out of Contadora.  The Shah lived there in exile in 1980 (in a mansion with white columns down the street from the visitors center is what I was told).

It was our mission to locate many of the beaches on the map.  We discovered Playa Cacique with Villa Romantica sitting on the hill, Playa Larga (the longest beach), Playa de las Suecas we could pretty much see where it was hidden (this is one of the top fifty nudists beaches in the world---http://www.complex.com/pop-culture/2012/06/the-50-best-topless-beaches-and-pools-in-the-world/playa-de-las-suecas) and Playa Ejecutiva.  We decided to visit Playa Cacique for our first day.   We loaded up cooler bags at the villa and had the beach pretty much to ourselves.

Looking over at Villa Romantica (to be sold in one month, oh dear, there goes another one)

Pretty much how the beaches looked on a Monday or Tuesday or Wednesday.

Rincon Hot Stone restaurant.

 Once back at the villa, we would pretty much have our own happy hour with beers and sangria being lazy on our deck until it was time to do the arduous task of getting ready for dinner.  On this first night, since Casa Tortuga (first choice) was closed all week, we went to Rincon Hot Stone.  But like all things on the island, this restaurant had made some changes.  Food was no longer prepared table side.  Service was typical of Panamanian service, but the island attitude went along with it here.  Slow.  There was miscommunication and misunderstanding with most everything ordered (in Spanish).  There was very good and free garlic bread.  But when more was ordered, it would cost $2.50.  Only bottled water sold and served (maybe they don't drink the tap water, after all).  The Corvina Pargo fish of the day was delicious.  The pork chops and chicken filet, not so much.  The piña colada was quite tasty though.  Back at the villa, Ray decided he didn't want to have me like him so much for the remaining of the trip, and instead of letting me win the card game I had been winning all along, he turned the game around and beat me.  Our first lazy day on the island came to end, but it was another full day of retirement life!

Another way to arrive in Contadora is by helicopter.  A mere $1100.